Land of OZ

To Oz we go…

Australia - August 13 - September 24, 2024

 Click webpage for Videos https://www.oceansfive.net/australia

How often do events we fear prove to be the opposite? Our sail to Australia, which we anticipated with a bit of trepidation, in reality, was quite lovely. The first couple days had wind gusts in the 30 knot range and rolly seas, resulting in fast downwind sailing of up to 12 knots. One scary moment when the gybe preventer on the mainsail broke. Thankfully, no one was hurt and the running rigging prevented the boom from swinging wildly into the spreaders on the mast. A little scrape on the paint of the boom was the only, minor casualty. Phew! We spoke to a German vessel from the World ARC Rally who had a similar breakage, but their captain was standing near the main sheet (rope that holds the boom down to the rear deck) and was hit by the main sheet, resulting in fractured ribs and arm. He had to be evacuated by helicopter out of the Marquesas. Every so often we have these reminders to keep us from becoming complacent about safety. Especially when the winds are higher, the forces are exponentially greater and incidents occur quicker.

We avoid fishing this crossing - we are moving too fast and have three sails flying. We’re also pressed for time to outrun some bad weather approaching. As we head southwesterly, the weather begins to cool. Sweaters (or jumpers as our crew calls them) and long pants are a welcome replacement to the sweaty t-shirts and heavy, humid heat we’d been experiencing. Ellie’s warm, hearty meals are the highlight of our days. Crossing cookies are a welcome treat, as well!

On Sunday, August 11th, we finally see WHALES!! We’ve been hearing about sightings from other vessels and are overjoyed to have a big humpback breach not far from us. We hadn’t noticed any indication of whales, until this breach. Calvin walked up the companionway into the cockpit area, looked to his left, and this big whale shot straight up out of the water!! Big whale, big splash! Then it was gone.

On the sixth day of our crossing, we made our way through the passes in the Great Barrier Reef (GBR). The larger, deep water pass is Hydrographers Passage, followed by a short cut through Bramble Pass. Rainy, into the wind, rolly seas as we head through the passes and inside the GBR. It’s quite unpleasant, but we don’t really mind. We’ve had a much smoother crossing than we anticipated. Plus, we’ll be to Mackay, Australia around nightfall today!! Ellie’s been working away in the galley, trying to cook all the raw meats the Australian customs will confiscate. We look through all the cabinets, under seats and floor boards to pull out all the items we know they’ll want to inspect or remove. Baskets, wooden carved figures, rice, dried beans, mayonnaise, lentils, all fresh fruits/veggies, and on and on…. Once we arrive at the Mackay Marina, we dock at the custom’s dock and wait. Finally, the immigration people arrive, then the drug sniffing dog (cutest little black lab ever!) and, finally, the customs people who inspect every cabinet, floorboard, etc (at least the man in training did while his instructor was looking. Otherwise, he just peeked his head into the rooms when she was busy elsewhere. Worked for us.).

We enjoyed our few days at the marina and back in a sophisticated civilization. Highlights of Mackay were a decent mall (no Millenia Mall, but it did have a Target), real hair salons, huge grocery stores (Coles and Woolworths) and very friendly people. Rob and I rented a car and drove to the Eungella National Park at Broken River to one of the few places in the world in which to view platypuses in the wild. Gorgeous drive there, about 1 1/2 hours northwest of Mackay. Hills, forests and loads of sugarcane fields. On our way, we stopped at a solitary restaurant in Pinnacle, called The Pinnacle (possibly, the only building in town?). Their speciality was pies, single-serving, savory pies. The place itself was quintessential rural Australia - single story with tin roof, large covered porch, big bar tended by some hard livin’ women, pool table room and friendly service. And good pies, served with a thick, gummy, green weird pea mash. Back on the road to the park… We were too early in the day to see the platypuses. A stop at Fitch Hatton Gorge for a hike to the Wheel of Fire waterfall placed us in the correct time frame to see the little fellas. Once inside Eungella park, we stopped at Broken River, and walked along a nice path through the woods to the viewing area, passing Anne, Nick, Sam and Cath (Rock Lobster) who reported spotting the cute critters. At first, the area looked unappealing - a murky brown widening of the small river. However, a little platypus surfaced for a moment and then dove under to feed. A couple would appear and then disappear in the brown water. They were surprisingly small - about 15-20 inches long, tip of bill to tip of tail. Expecting them to look like big beavers with a duck bill, we were pleasantly amused by how cute they were. Not to get too off track, but they’re egg laying mammals with features similar to a bird (bill and webbed feet) and the males have a deadly venomous spur on their hind legs. Lastly, their bills are a super sensory electroreceptor organ, which allows them to detect the electrical activity in the muscles of their prey (fish, worms, etc) in the murky water. And this is a mammal!? Only in Australia.

Australia is very large. During our six week stay, we explored the coastline from Mackay northward and then around the northern coast, westward to Darwin, less than a quarter of the periphery of this vast country. Overall, we were surprised by the mountainous topography, with thick forests lending a very northwestern coastal US feel to the landscape. A variety of pines interspersed with other large trees. Beautiful, vast, clean, unpopulated. We loved it!

Calvin and Ellie leave on vacation to Japan for a couple of weeks which allows the two of us to enjoy Jolie in a way we always have in the past. We depart Mackay and head dead into the wind through the Coral Sea toward Pelican Island. Shortly after we leave the marina, we start spotting humpback WHALES!! Lots and lots of whales, swimming, breaching, slapping their fins, mamas and babies. Magnificent! They’re visible in the near and far distance all the way to Pelican Island. The following morning, Pau and Helena (Mastegot) come over for breakfast. From our quiet bay, we can see whales breaching in the distance. Shortly after, mamas and babes slowly make their way around the small bay in which we’re anchored, their loud exhaled puffs easily audible in the quiet morning air. We watch in wonder. Later that day we dinghy over to Brampton Island to hike up to a gorgeous lookout. Unaware of the large tidal change, we return to our dinghy, resting 40 feet up the beach, surrounded by sand, not water. Poor Rock Lobster kindly helps us heave ho and drag it little by little back to the water. Once we made it back to Jolie, we moved over to Goldsmith Island for the night. Then to Shaw Island the following day where we work on the boat prepping for our visitors. We’re super excited to have Tracy and Jim Zboril and Liz and Robert Zielke joining us for the Whitsunday’s!! A precious piece of home. We are touched they’re willing to travel so far to visit us!!

On Tuesday, August 20th, Oyster arranged their biggest to-do of the rally in the form of the Whitehaven Beach Halfway Party. This beach is pristine, considered the most beautiful beach in Australia by many. Long, white, fine sand. Oyster brings in all the necessities to provide a lovely lunch (except bathrooms - for these we need to tip-toe through the scrub and trees), including long tented cover to provide shade in the relentless sunshine and copious amounts of seafood and booze. Dawning on us the significance of having traveled to the other side of the world, by sailboat, the mood to celebrate is in the air. Toward the end of the party, Rob dinghies to Jolie to check his phone for any word from the Z’s. They’ll be arriving at Whitehaven via water taxi from Hamilton Island in a couple hours. I’m delighted to see his early return with our four friends!! So great to see their big smiles and feel the sweet pang of the familiarity of dear friends! Many of our new friends had already returned to their vessels, but we were able to introduce some of them to the Z’s. I was reminded how almost complacent I’ve become with these gorgeous places by Robert - not by words, but in his desire to simply sit on this beautiful beach, breathe it all in, watch the sunset, unhurried to return to Jolie. Slow down, Heather, take it all in, appreciate these places we may likely never see again.

Indicators of the degree of celebration are the items on the WhatsApp chat the following morning, searching for their owners - an assortment of flip flops, a dress, sunglasses, hats, phones, etc. British and Irish people really know how to party!

Our guests aboard, we sail Jolie to Border Island for our first snorkel in Australia. All bundled up in our scuba duds, we had a good laugh at and with each other. We quickly determine the water is COLD! Much colder than our last dip in the water in Fiji. Thinking snorkelling in the 7mm wet suits the Z’s had rented for the trip, might be overkill, we were quickly proven wrong. The clarity of the water wasn’t great (we learn this is typical along the mainland) but there’s always some interesting coral and fish. It was still invigorating to get back in the water after our long hiatus. Love how our friends are eager to see what’s below the surface, to the extent Tracy and Liz were scuba certified for this trip! Very cool and courageous!! Jim and Robert went through a refresher, so all were raring to go for snorkel or scuba. Well, and margaritas! We rounded off the day with deliciously refreshing margaritas a la Robert and Jim, as well as Wagyu steaks on the barbie, procured by our guests. Tracy, Liz and I crowd into the galley, cooking, sharing our opinions on how to prep, chatting, laughing, drinking. It’s all so good.

Our next island hop was to Hook Island, in the beautiful Butterfly Bay. We were rewarded with a better-bundled, longer snorkel, revealing more colourful corals, greater variety of fish, clearer visibility. Excited, muffled voices through snorkels as someone spots an unusual critter or coral. Even for us adults, there’s a connection to a child-like wonder for these new under-the-ocean sights. It’s audible in everyone’s voices. We never tire exploring what may be revealed to us in this whole other world. And afterward, as we discuss what we’ve seen and try to locate fish/critters in our reference books (our favorite, Reef Fish Identification, Tropical Pacific, by Allen, Steene, Humann, and DeLoach and their Reef Creature Identification book).

We decide to sail to the outer reef of the GBR to Bait Reef. Thus far, we’ve been exploring the inner islands of the GBR. The outer reef is reportedly clearer, at times, but can be very rough if there’s much of a swell. We’re in luck and have a beautiful sail to an area called the Stair Steps. Several mooring balls rest unoccupied, waiting for us. It’s a gorgeous day for snorkelling, sunny and warmer. We can see the “stair steps” through the clear, aquamarine water. Tall pillars of corals ascend from the depths to just below the water’s surface, visible as large circles of coral, dotting the area. Covered in corals, the pillars are large, with deep crevasses between and a wall along one side, with only deep, endless blue as far as our eyes can see. We are in the cold waters of Australia, where aggressive varieties of sharks are prevalent. I can’t help feeling a little chill as I look into the blue abyss, keeping my imagination in check. In silent agreement, we all stay near the pillars. Clear waters, beautiful fish in many varieties - some large like the glowingly blue and green Steephead parrotfish reaching 2 1/2 feet long. Anemones abound, many without a resident clownfish, but a few are tucked into the anemones in the coral crevices at the tops of the pillars. A couple of small black tip reef sharks glide through the scene. Blissfully warm showers to rinse off the chill and salt water, we later decide it’s calm enough to stay put and spend the night out on the outer reef. Of the Great Barrier Reef. All by ourselves - no other boat in sight. Gorgeous. Stop. Breathe. Appreciate where we are and be grateful to share this experience with good friends. We conclude this lovely day with drinks, dinner, more drinks, a little dancing. Alone, on the Great Barrier Reef. Wow.

We arose to the sun reflecting off the endless hues of blues and greens, beckoning us in for another look. Early snorkel of another area of the steps while we’re still alone. As beautiful, or even more so, as yesterday’s snorkel. Part of the draw of the ocean is you’re never sure what you’ll see when you put your face in it. It’s exciting. We finish up and prepare to leave just in time, as three other boats moor nearby. We have a lovely, close-to-the-wind sail, to Hayman Island and anchor at Blue Pearl Bay. The InterContinental Hayman GBR Resort is located over the hill from our anchorage. We decide a hike, followed by drinks and dinner at the resort sounded superb. Somewhat dissuaded by the fact the resort said they didn’t allow yachties, we had our lucky charm, Robert, who somehow knows how to make the unexpected happen. Along the trail, we spot wild wallabies as they hop through the brush! They’re adorable, much smaller than a kangaroo and quite shy. As the trail ascends, the low scrubby bushes and trees are replaced by towering, richly green evergreens growing out of the steep, craggy cliffs along the shoreline, the blue blue ocean and sky filling the scene beyond them. After reaching the “summit” of the trail, we come to the conclusion, as we look down upon the resort, we’re unlikely to get served at the InterContinental.

Plus, we’re too lazy to walk all the way down there, only to be turned away. The perfect alternative evolves - return to Jolie to Robert and Jim, both whom know their way around a kitchen, mixing drinks and embellishing Ellie’s bolognaise sauce for dinner. Later, the night sky is clear and bright, loaded with stars. Copious white sparkles on a black canvas.

Ready for a hike the following morning, we again hit the trail up the hill. This time we choose the longer trail to Cook’s Lookout. Beautiful views of the surrounding islands and turquoise waters. We’re really ready for a refreshing snorkel afterward. The shoreline along the left side of the bay proves to be a beautiful snorkel. We’re pleasantly surprised by the variety of fish, some quite large. And more anemones guarded by their clownfish. During the afternoon, we move over to the mainland, to Airlie Beach, one of Australia’s most popular tourist destinations. A lively waterfront town, with a long park separating the main road from the oceanfront. We begin to notice this common theme in the layout of the larger cities - a large green space along the waterfront, with enormous, elaborate pools and park areas. Very family friendly. We also notice another theme - many young, early 20s, Irish women working in restaurants and bars. Beautiful, engaging and friendly, looking for work opportunities that aren’t available in Ireland. We meet them throughout our travels in Australia. There are some from other countries, but predominantly Ireland.

We enjoy exploring the town the following morning, walking along the waterfront, a little tempted (maybe not really)by the most enormous shiny, metal slide in the playground along the waterfront. About 30 feet high, with a web of roping to scramble up to reach it. No way would this slide be permitted in a public park in our litigious American world. After lunch, Tracy, Liz and I have some well-appreciated girl time, shopping. Advising me on my purchases, it was fun to have their expertise, as well as some decent clothing stores in which to choose. Enjoyed coffee and chat at The Deck, and later, a sunset dinner at Sorrento with our fellas.

Airlie Beach is a popular jumping off point to access the GBR for diving and snorkelling trips. The next morning, we finally have our eagerly anticipated scuba dive with Whitsunday Dive Adventure. A two-tank dive, we explore Butterfly Bay (not far from where we’d anchored) and then a reef wall at Black Island. The dives were a bit murky, but pleasant, protected dives for first open water excursions for Tracy and Liz. Tracy spotted an adorable, tiny juvenile Sweetlips, with its many spots and dainty, undulating fins dancing among the coral. So many little fish, critters and corals to see. It’s nice to have the time down below to look for them as we dive. Kudos to Tracy and Liz, who did awesome for their very first ocean dives! We capped off the day with delicious cocktails and dinner at Eastwood Restaurant in Airlie, following the recommendation of our cute Irish waitress, whom Rob had met earlier in the day at the grocery store. Relaxing walk along the oceanfront pathway, back to the dinghy dock, followed by an unexpected cold water plunge by Robert, as he mistakenly stepped toward the dinghy only to find air! Then, POOF! He was gone! Without a sound! Oddly enough, this dinghy dock suddenly narrows toward the end. This certainly isn’t the first time this has happened!

After debating whether we should stay put or venture out, we move the next morning over to Hook Island, in the Nara Inlet. This inlet runs deep into the island, framed on each side by steep rocky hillsides covered in glorious pines extending all the way down to the water. We anchor far back in this beautiful, narrow, uninhabited gorge. The water is quite calm and the overall effect is a peaceful one. Until the white cockatoos squawk obnoxiously as they fly from tree to tree. These beautiful white birds, their heads adorned with pale yellow crests, are in every place we travel in Australia. We typically hear them before we see them…. All ready to explore, we take the dinghy over to a small beach at the base of the path to a hidden cave, known for its ancient drawings. We learn the Ngaro People created these ancient markings (we couldn’t quite determine what they were drawings of?), some 9000 years ago. Later, Rob convinced Jim to go for a snorkel with him, while the girls paddle boarded around the inlet. Quiet, beautiful, peaceful place where we enjoyed our last evening with the Z’s.

The first one to arise the following morning, Rob had a bold, beautiful visitor. Sipping his coffee and eating a cookie in the quiet of the cockpit, one of the cockatoos landed on the back stay, casually observing him. He allowed Rob to slowly approach, then gingerly ate a cookie held out in his hand. Rob was delighted with this close touch with nature. Of course, the bird had taken off before Rob could muster me up to see it. Our last morning, enjoying our favorite Foxtail coffee (smuggled into Sydney stashed in one of their suitcases) in our PJs, with some of our favorite people. How does time pass so quickly?? We reluctantly head back to Airlie Beach to drop them off in order to catch a ferry to Hamilton Island and then fly back to Sydney. They are a fun, loveable, boisterous lot and they leave a big hole in their absence. It’s comforting knowing they are all so well and we’ll see them again after we complete the second half of our journey.

After lunch and coffee bean purchase in Airlie, Rob and I pull anchor and head north, unsure yet where we’ll stop. No wind and calm seas, we decide to motor through the night to Magnetic Island, known for its population of wild koala bears. We drop the hook at Horseshoe Bay after lunch. Ready for a hike up to an old WWII fort, we paddleboard ashore (With the change in tides, we’ve learned the hard way that our heavy dinghy will be stuck way up on the beach by the evening, so easier to paddleboard.). There are a few small restaurants and a tiny grocery. We decide it wise to make a dinner reservation at Barefoot Art Food and Wine. The sweet, French server, Marciana, who reserved a table for us, offered to drive us up to the trailhead to the fort, which we happily accept. As we begin the hike at the trailhead, we’re told by someone coming down the path to keep an eye out for arrows drawn in the sand of the trail, marking koala bears tucked away in the woods. Real, live koala bears!!! Sure enough, we look in the direction the arrow is pointing and don’t see anything. After a few minutes, we notice the little grey figure tucked into a low V in the tree, about our head level. Adorably, he peers at us through the branches. He’s cuter than any stuffed animal koala bear I’ve ever seen, with his big tufts of white and grey hair erupting from his ears. I catch movement out of the corner of my eye from another tree and see another koala with a tiny baby clinging to her back. Incredibly cute! They’re so gentle-seeming and mild mannered. She climbs down her tree, with a dainty little hop to the ground. We end up seeing 5 koala bears, but not without the help of some kind stranger leaving markings on the trail. They’re surprisingly hard to spot hidden in the eucalyptus trees. Hiking further up the hill through the remains of WWII ruins, we enjoy the vast views over the ocean. No wonder it was called a World War, we’ve seen evidence of it in many areas we’ve traveled. Flagging down a passing bus, we have a pleasant drive back to town in time for dinner. At the end of the evening, as the sun is setting, we paddleboard back home to Jolie. Lovely, quiet time of day, surrounded by the reflection of the sunset sky on the calm waters.

Waving goodbye to Horseshoe Bay early in the windless morning, we once again have to motor through the day and night, arriving at Fitzroy Island at 6:30am. Fortunately, a mooring ball is available since the navigational chart warns not to anchor there due to unexploded ordinances(meaning unexploded bombs - probably from WWII). Disturbing watching some people anchor there anyway. Fitzroy Island Resort rests at the base of the bay and a campground to the left of it. Busy place, lots of ferries and people. Our main goal here is an energetic hike. Once again, we paddleboard to the beach, stash our boards and proceed on a great 4+ mile hike to the summit, around to an old, ugly lighthouse and back to the resort where we lunch at the basic beach bar (once again, only resort guests allowed into the restaurant, but we’re happy with the beach bar). After paddling back to Jolie, we quickly change for a snorkel and explore the small reef to the right of the beach. The stand out star of this reef were huge, colourful clams; the ones with the undulating edges, not the sharp zig zaggy ones. The exterior of the shell is quite dull, but the interior ranges from variations of browns, to bright blues, purples or greens. We have thoroughly enjoyed our time aboard, just the two of us, like we’ve done for years. It’s now time for us to head north up to Cairns, to Marlin Marina, to reunite with our crew. Once again, no wind, so we motor….

After a difficult docking process (too much wind, awkward slip, etc), we’re happy to see Calvin and Ellie. They had a wonderful vacation to Japan and are filled with stories. They’re seeing so much of the world at such a young age. Their adventurous spirits are impressive!

Rob and I can’t leave Australia without another peek at the outer reef of the GBR. A bit of a cattle-callish experience on DreamTime charter. Emm, of Distraction, joined us for the rough, high speed 1 1/2 hour trip out from Marlin Marina. After mooring, the three of us are the only scuba divers, the other 50 people are snorkelers. This works out well for us because our dive master, Oliver (from France), is very flexible about how we’d like to dive and what we’d like to see. We dive in two locations, both quite clear, with a variety of fish and quite a healthy coral population.

Some areas are dead, but overall, the reef appears to be recovering, with lots of growth evident. Oliver warns us about a very friendly, huge bump head wrasse (they get to 5 or 6 feet long!)who may press up against us or suddenly appear very close in front of your mask. He also warns not to push him away because he bites. I’m relieved to say, he doesn’t pay us a visit. On the return to Cairns, a couple of the staff members give us a concert on the didgeridoo, an Aboriginal wind instrument, made out of a long piece of wood. It’s quite impressive the variety of deep sounds and rhythms the young man is able to make out of this piece of wood! And it helped to pass the time back to the marina.

Upon return to Jolie, we hastily pack for a few days in Port Douglas, a cute, “up scale” coastal town about an hour north of Cairns. We arrive late, in the dark, so not until the following morning do we really appreciate the area. It reminds us of a very old, small Miami Beach. A couple roads are lined with nice boutiques, restaurants, coffee shops, bakeries and bars. We love how Australians love their coffee! We spent hours strolling the street, shopping, eating, walking on the beachfront trail by 4 Mile Beach. One day we drove up to Daintree Rainforest, stopping at the very serene Daintree Ecolodge for lunch. It was so peaceful and zenish, we found ourselves practically whispering to each other during our meal. Maybe a little too serene. Long walk through lush Daintree rainforest rounded out the day beautifully.

A few more days at the marina are spent prepping for the almost 2,000 mile trip to Darwin and catching up with friends over drinks and dinners. Marlin Marina is quite pleasant, including many decent food and drink options. One of the evenings, Caroline and Glenn, from JaZoFi, arrive after a harrowing 10-day crossing from Fiji, looking thin, strained and very ready for a cocktail. Bad weather, big seas and failed autopilot led to an exhausting trip where even meals prepared ahead of time were difficult to heat up and consume (couldn’t use microwave because contents would spill or come careening out when door was opened, thus the gimballed stove proved invaluable)and hand steering was necessary for 8 days straight. Hand steering is exhausting in bad weather. Caroline, a physically capable person, said, at times, she wasn’t strong enough to steer. To hand steer sailing for a two hour shift under high winds and seas is hard physically, but also stressful mentally. Mostly because the heading must be maintained in order to prevent the sails from gybing and the boom crashing across and possibly damaging rigging, sails or sailors. Thankfully, they had well-trained crew on board to share in the efforts. After an experience such as theirs, land can feel oh-so-good, as was evident by the relief on their faces.

On Monday morning, September 9th, we maneuver Jolie over to the fuel dock, Calvin at the helm and Rob in the tender to push the bow in case our persnickety bow thruster over heats. Ellie and I tend the lines and fenders. Everything set, or as set as can be, we begin the sail to Lizard Island (named by Captain Cook), about 150 miles north. We arrive at first light on a very windy day. Fortunately, the anchorage has a solid holding. Ready to explore, Rob and I pop in the dinghy to look for best snorkel areas. However, we notice no one is in the water. We also notice signs on the beach warning of crocodiles. As we venture north in Australia, we’re aware the saltwater crocodiles become more prevalent. After some research we learn someone was killed last year at the resort near our anchorage. Yikes! We’re satisfied sticking our faces in the water from the dinghy to see what’s below, rather than getting completely in the water. We know we’re probably being over cautious - the crocs are usually out around dusk and after nightfall. Huge black ray and giant clams are the stand out here, in addition to pretty corals. Instead of playing in the water, we hike up to Cook’s Look Track, where Captain Cook climbed to attempt to see a physical path through the GBR (later named Cook’s Passage). We are still inside the GBR, loaded with lots of smaller reefs we have to avoid because they can be quite shallow. Australia is well charted, so we can see on our chart, day and night, what to avoid. It’s almost a miracle Cook was able to navigate these waters without the benefit of any charts! How did he accomplish that? In the evening, friends fill our cockpit (Rock Lobster, Distraction and Ostara) for drinks and passage planning to Darwin.

We all depart in the morning, sailing through the day and night. These passages are tedious, dodging small reefs and islands, as well as skirting along the shipping lanes to steer clear of cargo vessels. These moonless nights are very dark. I so prefer the light of day sailing through these busy, reef-filled passages. Blinking lights mark small islands, but we rely on charts for submerged reefs. Winds are high - about 30 knots - but seas aren’t too large, so we’re able to get some sleep. Rain on and off through the night. The following evening, we pull into Margaret Bay for the night. It’s too late to go ashore (it’s croc o’clock). Dinner, early to bed, early to rise at 4 am to begin again.

Lovely, downwind sail northward. The Australian coastline has gradually transitioned from green, mountainous to very flat over the past few days. The large trees are gone, replaced by flattened rock and low scrub. After sailing around the northern most tip of Australia(Cape York Tip), we anchor at a quiet bay on Possession Island, named by Captain Cook, in 1770.

Having exited the GBR with its abundance of reefs and little islands which lend to a more stressful passage, we’re ready to just SAIL and get to Darwin. No more stopping for the night. Over the following 5 days, we notice the climate warming up again and the humidity increasing. The Big Banana reappears in response to lighter winds. Once again, the highlight of each day is Ellie’s glorious dinners. In the beginning, it was difficult for me to get used to having crew performing my normal duties, such as cooking. Well, I seem to have adjusted beautifully. Maybe we should have a chef when we get home?

Our last evening, during a gorgeous sunset, we have visitors. A pod of about 10, beautiful, small dolphins dive and dodge and pivot along the bow. In the warm glow cast by the departing sun, we sit with our feet over the bow and watch their performance beyond our toes. Mesmerising. The strength and athleticism evident in every effortless acceleration, cut, dodge, jump and dive they perform, all with a little amused expression on their faces. We love them and rejoice in every visit they gift us.

Our last gasp of Australia is Darwin, which proves to be a bit of a pain to enter. We are no longer in Queensland, but rather the Northern Territory of Australia. The NT, or maybe the marina (Cullen Bay Marina) requires us to dock outside the marina, pay for divers to insert a pesticide into the hole of our main water intake, shut off all the systems (refrigerators, freezer, AC, generator, etc) for 10 hours and then pass through the lock to get into the marina. These efforts are their attempt to prevent the spread of an aggressive mussel which works its way through the hulls of boats left sitting in the marina for long periods of time. At least we had Rock Lobster rafted to us and were present to welcome Anne back after her boat break visiting an old friend in Australia.

The marina is pleasant, offering a few decent restaurants and bars, and a large beachfront park. Australia knows how to create inviting spaces, embracing its natural beauty and scheduling activities welcoming to families. The weekend we were docked there, they had an enthusiastic kite festival, expected to attract thousands of people. Kites of all sizes, from the little cheap ones bought at Walmart to expansive humpback whales, sharks, jellyfish, Donald Ducks and Sponge Bobs. Others were brightly lit for night time flight. The park was filled with families picnicking on blankets, enjoying bites from the corral of food trucks in the nearby parking lot. Each night concluded with a family friendly movie. Rob and I found ourselves lying in the grass watching the last part of the movie (neither of us can remember what it was) and the flowing movements of the long, illuminated kites in the night sky.

Since we’re at the marina, Rob and I once again decide to take advantage of the situation and spend a few days off the boat at a little resort in Darwin. And because of saltwater crocs, it’s wise to avoid our usual water activities (no one snorkels in Darwin). Palm City Resort checked the boxes. Nothing fancy or expensive (Darwin doesn’t really offer much of that), but cute, comfortable and has AC. We’re definitely further north, toward the equator, back to the heat and humidity, so we love us some AC!! The resort is on the Esplanade, across the street from the beautiful city park, stretching for miles along the oceanfront. In the evening, we meet up with friends at an Oyster event at the Dinah Beach Cruising Yacht Association for the Half St Patty’s Day celebration. Apparently, there’s a large, well-established Irish population in Darwin. The evening included an Irish band and an impressive Irish dance show with children of all ages, as well as adults. The kids’ dancing was incredible - green velvet and satin consumes with gold highlights, hair pulled up into tight buns, keeping pace with the complicated steps, earnest expressions on their young faces. Parents looking on so proudly. Fun event to witness and celebrate! And we’re not even Irish! Needless to say, Calvin loved it.

Our last outing in Darwin was to Litchfield National Park, about an hour and a half drive through rural Australia. Northern Australia is quite dry, with evidence of frequent wildfires in the burned landscape. The taller trees and heartier scrub survive. Huge termite mounds, more similar to tall, narrow limestone sculptures than mounds, protrude from the dry ground periodically through the landscape along the road. Some are taller than we are. Once in the park, we visited Florence Waterfall, a fresh water pool below two waterfalls spilling over the cliff side. A dip in the fresh, cool, clear water was delightfully refreshing on this hot day. We were somewhat reassured by the sign telling us the crocodile risk was low. As we dry off, the bird sounds in the tall trees close by catch our attention. Uh, not birds, but rather huge fruit bats hanging upside down, some riled up and flying around. Most just hanging there, leather wings wrapped tautly around their bodies. One never knows what one may see in the Land of Oz….

After our three day jaunt, we return to Jolie for the usual pre-passage preparations for our departure to Kupang, Indonesia. We conclude our evening with after dinner drinks at Lola’s with Rock Lobster and Altaia, discussing crossing plans.

Unfortunately, Altaia had their new sails delaminate and are waiting on the delivery of the replacement set. Thus, their departure will be delayed for a number of days.

In the morning, we pass through the lock, then customs and are off on our next adventure. Australia has been a welcome reprieve, feeling much like the US in many ways. We’re anticipating exploring Indonesia, excited about the very foreignness of it compared to home.