Sloths and Crocodiles, oh, and sailing..

We sure spent a lot of time at docks recently. Docked at Shelter Bay waiting to pass through the Canal and now docked at La Playita Marina, taking care of necessary preparation for the requirements to enter the Galapagos, as well as the longest sail of the circumnavigation following our visit to Galapagos - the sail to the Marquesas.

Rob and I decided we’d take a reprieve from the boat by visiting a nearby “ecolodge,” The Gamboa Rainforest Resort. A couple of the other families had visited the resort and recommended it. Located on the Chagres River in the gorgeous Gamboa rainforest of Panama, we are excited to explore the area. The view off our balcony faces the wide, meandering river as it snakes its way through the jungle. We’re situated high up on a ridge in the rainforest, so the view is vast and all encompassing. At various times of the day, your senses are bombarded with the sights, sounds, smells and touches of Mother Nature. The hammock on the balcony is the ideal repose to witness the wakening of the day. In the darkness before sunrise, hardly a sound can be heard from the black vastness below. In concert with the first light before the sun breaks the horizon, the birds begin their song. Quiet chirps that crescendo into a great cacophony as the sun peeks above the hillside. Periodically, the howler monkeys roar in the background, then fade to silence, only to roar again a few minutes later. A marvel. Once again, I’m so grateful to be an early rising witness to God’s unfolding masterpiece.

Early one evening, before sunset, Rob and I walk along a path by the river. Wonderful breeze cools us. Surprisingly delightful temperature and more surprisingly, no mosquitos. We hear the rush of the Howler monkeys’ haunting yell in the distance and are drawn on a quest to find them. We are serenaded deeper and deeper into the jungle, feeling like we’re oh-so-close but not able to see them. They vocalize all at once and then halt completely. Then howl from a different location. Finally, we get to the point where we’re surrounded by their howls, but we’re still unable to spot even one of them! Entranced for 10 minutes, straining to see them as the light fades. Also, starting to feel the dawning of discomfort as night is falling and we’re becoming more aware of the deepening shadows in the dense jungle surrounding us. Creepiness outweighs curiosity and we turn back toward the resort. Maybe we’ll spot them tomorrow night?

This area is an odd compilation of structures built by the US in the 1930s to house employees of the Panama Canal (now largely deserted and dilapidated); and the nearby resort, built on the Gamboa Ridge in 2000. The resort has seen better days. Still, most importantly, the AC cranks, rooms are clean and beds are comfortable, so we’re happy. And the food is good (Rob’s Number One concern). The nature preserve around the buildings more than makes up for the shortcomings of the structures.

Exploring the rainforest, we fall in love with the slow moving two-toed sloths and the brightly colored toucans - both not easily spotted, which entices us to discover the next one. We’re so excited - like two little kids - when we are able to discern a sloth from a tree branch or a glimpse of the vibrant colors of a toucan. The vast jungle is similar to the one behind Shelter Bay Marina only on steroids - larger, massive trees, ferns that grow to the size of trees, palms galore, massive rope-like vines. We find ourselves craning our necks upward, searching, then tripping over tree roots. How to look everywhere at once? We see leaf cutter ants along the ground throughout the forest. They clear a 5 inch wide trail for themselves, free of any debris, across the human path and into the woods. They stand out because they busily march along carrying parts of green leaves, easily three times their size, up over their heads. Essentially, they are fungus farmers. They use the leaves to create an underground compost to grow their food. Ants! What?

After three nights away from Jolie, we are ready to return. However, this trip helps us realize it’s important to take time away now and again. As much as we love the boat, it is an ongoing stress of immediate needs versus delayed needs. A restful break is a good thing.

Back at La Playita Marina, we spend the last few days checking boxes for the necessary preparations for the Galápagos Islands. They are, by far, the most prohibitive of our destinations. We have the boat sprayed for pests, requiring us to pull up every floorboard. Divers scrub the underside and waterline of our girl, Jolie. We’ll need to present them certificates stating we’ve had these procedures performed or they won’t allow us into the islands, along with a myriad of other documents in quadruplicate.

Wednesday morning, February 28th, we finally loosen our dock lines and make our way over to La Flamenco Marina to fuel up. It feels so good to motor our way out of the marina. We’re free!! Although the start is slow - we have to make our way through the forty-one cargo ships anchored in the bay, waiting to enter the Panama Canal - we have a beautiful downwind sail toward Coiba. Coiba is a Panamanian island in the general direction of Galapagos known for some interesting diving. And, it cuts out a day of the trip to Galapagos. The winds are light and the seas are calm, which makes it easier for us to spot a whale (right whale?), diving dolphins and a single shark making his way behind our stern. The fellas decide it’s time to try the parasail to take full advantage of the lighter downwind. Beautiful, giant, mostly yellow and vertical lines of navy that blooms out above the sea on our port side, looking like half a hot air balloon. Rob affectionately names it ‘The Big Banana.’ A bit of work to set up. Sadly, in less than an hour, the wind picks up over 20 knots so the parasail needs to come down. The next attempt to catch the wind is with the pole, set up to hold the Yankee sail out for higher wind, downwind sailing. Again, quite a lot of work for Rob and Calvin out on the bow. Ugh, this time,in less than 20 minutes, the wind completely dies. Engine started and the pole configuration has to be deconstructed. And so goes this sail to Coiba - frequently changing wind direction and velocity, from 3 knots to 33 knots. Up, down and all around with the sails and engine.

Coiba Island. Never heard of it, but it is a precious place. See Places Page https://www.oceansfive.net/coibaislands

Located off the southern coast of Panama, it is an uninhabited national park, once upon a time housing a penal colony. We had no expectations of our two night stop here, merely considering the fact it’s on our way to Galapagos and would take off one day of the five day sail. We anchor in a small bay off Coibita Island, situated a short distance off the northern tip of Coiba. Along with six other Oysters, we are the only boats here. Shortly after arriving, someone communicates on the VHF a happy hour at 5:00 on the beach of Coibita is planned for the evening. Surprisingly slowly, word passes it’s essential for us to be off the beach by sunset because hungry crocodiles make their way out from under the mangroves and small adjacent lagoon to the beach to hunt for their next meal. Enjoyable cocktail hour, ending with us all gingerly making our way into the water’s edge to hop quickly into our dinghies. Thankfully, no croc sightings that evening!

The following day, we rise early, excited about two dives we have scheduled for the day. A small ranger’s station, picnic area and tiny museum are on a beautiful beach on Coiba, across from our anchorage. We meet the dive master, Cynthia, there and hop on the colorful dive boat with all our gear. Fourteen divers from our Oyster group attend, divided into two boats.

Cynthia is interesting - similar to many nature-lovers who come to these remote places to live and work. She’s a tiny, athletic person, covered with marine-themed tattoos, topped with blondish dreads. One side of her head is partially shaved to reveal the underlying tattoo. She emits a sense of tough confidence and capability, but a little closed and kinda scary, at first. Once we’ve completed our first dive and, enthusiastically, ask her questions about what we’ve seen, she lights up! It’s apparent the sea, along with all its creatures, is her love. She connects immediately with those who share her passion.

Cynthia brings us to a dive called The Church in the morning and The Little Bean, in the afternoon. We’ve been diving and snorkeling in the Caribbean for over twenty years and have become very familiar with the corals, sea plants, fish and other critters of the Caribbean and Atlantic. What a delight to see first-hand some of the different species that thrive in the Pacific. It reminds me of our earlier years in the BVI with our kids, where we’d pull out the Reef Fish Identification book and spend hours identifying varieties we hadn’t seen before. From white tip sharks (they weren’t the least bit interested in us - surprisingly, not scary) to different colored puffers and trunk fish to vibrantly colored wrasses, large schools of surgeon fish, tangs unlike we’ve seen and unusual eels, these Pacific animals are all new to us. At least new to see first hand and swim alongside. Rob’s had aquariums for years, always based from Pacific creatures and corals. We’re excited to spot any previous aquarium tenants!

Our final day in Coiba, we attend a nature walk, hosted by a naturalist, Javier, who’s very knowledgeable and friendly. We’re a large group, about 20 people. Needless to say, we make way too much noise and don’t see any wildlife except some brown bird. Disappointing in that regard, but the views from the hill we climb are beautiful and help to make up for no Macaw, monkey or crocodile sightings. Javier explains that Coiba is one of the primary breeding and calving areas for humpback whales from the Northern and Southern Hemispheres. From the viewing platform, he explains whales arrive and remain around the Gulf of Chiriqui in Coiba’s protected marine park for several months after giving birth, before migrating back to colder waters of the Antarctic. It is the only area in the world where humpbacks from both hemispheres migrate. The northern whales are present from December to April, while the larger southern population is there from July to October. Sadly, no whales have been spotted recently.

Back at Jolie, we finish up on preparations for our departure to Galapagos. Rob dons his scuba gear and cleans any remnants of sea life clinging to the hull while I snorkel, scrubbing the waterline. It’s quite an effort, fighting the pull of the current toward the stern as we use our hands to scrub. Continual hard kicking with fins until we finish our task, both wiped out. Meanwhile, Calvin works on servicing the water maker, as Ellie creates a piece of leather to wrap around and protect a friction point on the bow railing. Finally, we’re ready to pull anchor. However, a last minute, unanimous decision, is made for one last quick snorkel before we spend 5 days confined to Jolie. Nature does not disappoint and we are rewarded with a captivating scene of new varieties of fish (bright yellow Guineafowl puffers, huge Bluefin trevallies, Japanese surgeonfish, Milne Bay damsels, Longfin Bannerfish and more!) We know some of their names thanks to our beloved Tropical Pacific Reef Fish ID book!

Begrudgingly, we pull the hook and begin our journey to the Galapagos. We would happily spend another week exploring Coiba National Park’s marine reserve. But Galapagos doesn’t sound so bad…. Htg